A taste of the Cyclades

We hover high above Santorini’s massive crater enclosed by sheer white, red and black lava-lined cliffs. Beneath us the deep blue sea, which is said to be home to Plato’s legendary lost city of Atlantis, glitters like lapis lazuli in the late evening light and the whitewashed villages teetering along its rim glisten like snow. Arriving by private jet to this Greek island, which was created when a volcano erupted here back in the 16th century BC, is truly unique. It’s easy to understand why, for countless decades, restaurants and tavernas tended to focus on the scenery rather than on the plate. But all that’s changing as a raft of new chefs are innovating with exciting results, prompting foodies to describe it as “a Cycladic San Sebastian”.

Most would agree, however, that the real pioneer was local food advocate George Hatzigiannakis, owner of Selene, a tiny taverna in the heart of the capital, Fira, which had an early focus on “terroir” cooking way before it was fashionable. Opened 41 years ago, Selene recently moved to the hallowed courtyard and arched interiors of Katikies Garden, a bijou boutique hotel set in a restored 18th-century Catholic monastery. With Michelin-starred Ettore Botrini currently at the helm, standout dishes at this culinary landmark include feather-tender slow-cooked local lamb served with nutty chickpeas and braised artichokes from the sister island of Tinos, and delicately sweet slipper lobster reclining on a plump bed of Cretan pasta skioufihta topped with a garlic-spiked, saffron-scented rouille sabayon foam.

Like Selene’s pioneering creator, today’s chefs pride themselves on working with the island’s exceptional produce. The fertile lava ash that coated the island so long ago, combined with year-round sunshine and lack of rain, produces intensely flavoured, mineral-rich produce. These include Santorini’s richly sweet cherry tomatoes, silky yellow split pea fava and grapes grown in circles the size and shape of storks’ nests to protect them from the wind, that are used to make inimitable wines like the thickly syrupy Vinsanto and the fresh Assyrtiko. “Santorini is unlike anywhere else in Greece because everything begins with the island’s volcanic terroir,” says George Kyrtsallidis, Executive Chef at Beefbar at Andronis Arcadia, who incorporates Mediterranean flavours and seasonal Greek ingredients into the brand’s internationally known dishes. “Here in Santorini, we consciously embrace the island’s produce and freshness. Dishes such as our tuna ceviche with coconut or our fattoush salad with stracciatella reflect the lightness and brightness that naturally belongs to the Cyclades,” he adds.

Markos Chaidemenos, owner and CEO of family-owned company the Canaves Collection, which pioneered luxury tourism in Oia in the early 1980s by converting traditional canaves wine cellars into luxurious boutique hotel accommodation, agrees: “What moves me about Santorini’s produce is how little it needs to taste extraordinary. It means our cooking can be honest rather than elaborate – the island has already done most of the work before the dish reaches the kitchen.”

The family’s five Canaves properties are home to some of the island’s most exclusive restaurants helmed by Executive Chef Tasos Stefatos, who has worked with Martin Berasategui, Ettore Botrini and other leading chefs. Stefatos’ unique take on local cuisine for Canaves Oia Epitome’s Elements restaurant overlooking kaiki fishing boats bobbing in Ammoudi Bay’s tiny harbour includes his delightful sofigado: pork cheeks slow-cooked in a melting onion sauce and delivered to the table in a brown envelope.

At Rizes, a gastro taverna that opened last year in Fira, Alexandros Makropoulos – who has previously collaborated with Sani Resort and the Four Seasons Group – also works with local producers to reinterpret traditional Greek recipes using modern techniques. “Our philosophy is to celebrate Greek cuisine in every dish, always highlighting the depth of flavour that comes from exceptional local ingredients,” says Makropoulos. “If I had to choose a few dishes that best express this philosophy, I would mention our freshly baked sourdough bread served with Santorini tomato paste and capers, and our signature katsikaki mastelo, where the goat shoulder is slow cooked for hours over grapevine shoots and fresh herbs until it becomes meltingly tender, absorbing the distinctive aromas of the vine and the island’s herbs. It is a dish that perfectly reflects the traditions, flavours and identity of Santorini,” he concludes.

Set in a peaceful spot far from the caldera’s crowds, all-suite retreat Domes Novos is the backdrop for rooftop restaurant Maitr & Margarita where chef Socratis Beligiannis’ bistronomy-style fine dining also has Greek heritage at its core. “Because of all the tourists, Santorini always had an international cuisine,” explains Beligiannis, whose succulent signature dishes include grilled octopus enhanced with a lightly acidic Assyrtiko vinegar glaze, served on a bed of fermented wheat and milk pasta trahanas, and silky tender local lamb slow-cooked in vine leaves accompanied by smoky aubergine cream and crisp pickles. “As years pass by, however, more and more cooks and chefs are designing local-oriented menus and concepts that actually help visitors understand the island and its uniqueness.”

Other restaurants that are putting Santorini on the globe’s gourmet radar include Varoulko, a spin-off of celebrity chef Lefteris Lazarou’s Michelin-starred Varoulko in Piraeus. Carefully sourced seafood prepared using contemporary Greek techniques is the star of the show at this caldera-edge restaurant in Imerovigli’s elegant Grace Hotel. Michelin-starred French chef Emmanuel Renaut is also making a splash with his Santorini-inspired menus at Lauda in Oia’s Andronis Boutique Hotel where innovative creations include Renaut’s refined version of fish soup kakavia paired with luscious lobster-filled gnocchi and seasonal vegetables in an aromatic shellfish broth.

“Once upon a time, Santorini was all about the views,” continues Chaidemenos, “but Santorini’s dining scene has matured alongside its global reputation. Today it competes with anywhere in the world on the strength of the food itself, not just the sunset behind it. The island is now on Michelin’s radar and, frankly, it’s about time.”

The Travel Division recommends: where to stay

Grace Hotel is one of Santorini’s most exclusive boutique hotels. Sitting high above the caldera in Imerovigli, it offers some of the island’s most unobstructed sunset views and a peaceful atmosphere away from the crowds. The design is minimalist and elegant, with spacious suites, many featuring heated plunge pools and large terraces.

Canaves Oia Suites is often considered one of Santorini’s flagship luxury hotels. Perched on the cliffs of Oia, it combines traditional Cycladic architecture with modern luxury. The hotel is within walking distance of Oia’s famous shops and sunset viewpoints.

Andronis Luxury Suites is one of Santorini’s most iconic hotels, famous for its traditional cave-style suites carved into the cliffs. The property offers a more intimate, romantic feel with luxurious suites featuring private pools or hot tubs.

Get there with Air Charter Service

Santorini’s main gateway is Santorini International Airport (JTR), where capacity is limited during peak season, so planning ahead is essential. The runway is long and can accommodate most private jet types, offering flexibility for the most convenient and luxurious start to your trip.

If you’re exploring more of Greece, arrive by private jet into Athens or visit Mykonos before getting a helicopter transfer to Santorini, transforming the final leg into an experience with stunning views over the Aegean.

A final option is to arrive by private yacht from Mykonos, creating a truly memorable island-hopping experience.

Image Credit: CHRISTOS DRAZOS PHOTOGRAPHY